AMARYLLIS GROWING DIRECTIONS- FALL 2008
The amaryllis bulbs selected for Preview of Spring 2009, The Greenhouse, are Royal Dutch hybrids which, according to our supplier, John Scheepers, can take anywhere
from 8-12 weeks to flower and possibly another 1-2 weeks to reach peak bloom. They have an internal clock of their own! Amaryllis originate from the tropics of South
America and are not hardy in our climate. If you have several bulbs, it is a good idea to spread out the potting over a few weeks in order to have a really good chance of
getting one in full bloom for Preview week. Prior to potting, store the bulbs at a consistently dry 50F with good ventilation; i.e. open up the bag and keep them in a mud
room, or somewhere cool but not freezing.
Single amaryllis ‘Exotic Star’ Trumpet amaryllis ‘Misty’
WHEN TO PLANT
Counting backwards from March, 4, 2009, the date you may enter your bulb in Preview,
14 weeks is Nov. 26, 12 weeks is December 10, and 8 weeks is January 7. If you have more than one bulb, try staggering the planting at 2 week intervals. If you only
have one bulb, try planting around December 20-24 (10 weeks before the show-see “Countdown to Preview” Horticulture Entry Timeline).
POTTING UP THE BULB
1.The show schedule requires a 6” standard terra cotta clay pot. If new, soak it first. If old, scrub it well or place in the dishwasher to clean. Cover the drainage hole with
a small square of paper towel or newspaper to help retain the soil.
2. Use a sterile potting mix (ex. Pro-Mix) and pour in some tepid water to moisten it.
3. Tip: Some growers suggest soaking the bulb and its dangling roots in lukewarm water for several hours before planting. Be sure to keep the water below the base of the
bulb to prevent rotting it.
4. Fill the pot half full with potting soil and position the bulb in the middle, carefully spreading out the roots. Add more soil and adjust so that 25% of the bulb is above the
soil level. Press the soil firmly around the bulb to prevent the plant from toppling over when in bloom. Leave ½-1” below the rim of the pot to allow space for watering.
WATER, HEAT and LIGHT
5. Water well with tepid water, leaving some water in the saucer to be soaked up into the bulb- but do not leave for more than ½ hour.
6. After the first good watering, water sparingly to keep the soil evenly moist until the flower shoot has come well up out of the bulb. These bulbs prefer to be kept on the
dry side. If they are kept too wet, you will get long green leaves before the flower bud.
7. Tip to break dormancy: The bulbs often need bottom heat to get them to wake up. Put the pot and saucer on a heating pad, food warming tray, or on top of a radiator
to encourage them to start growing. If you have a cooking stove with a griddle, you can put the pot and saucer on the griddle with the heat turned low. Leave it there all
day and turn off the flame at night. It may take several days of heating to jolt the bulb into sending up the flower shoot.
8. Once the shoot is up several inches, put the pot in direct light in a nice sunny window. A southern facing window is ideal. Turn a quarter of a turn each day to keep the
stem growing straight and tall. A temperature above 60F is preferred.
9. Keep the soil moist. As the bud begins to flower, gradually increase the amount of water. You may add water- soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 every two weeks.It
takes a tremendous amount of energy to produce the flowers for next season.
BLOOMS FOR THE SHOW
10. Warmth (70-80F) will speed up bloom. Keeping the bulb cool (50-55F) will retard growth and prolong the blooms. They may last 1-2 weeks out of direct sunlight.
11. Staking should not be required since the stems are usually strong and straight.However, temporary support will be needed to transport it to the show.
12. After the first stalk blooms, wait to see if another will emerge. Often there is a second bloom with good quality, topsize bulbs. Keep feeding.
AFTER CARE
13. Deadhead the flowers after they have bloomed and let the flower stalk die back naturally. Permit the foliage to continue to grow to help build up the bulb again.
14. You may take the pot outside in the summer in a protected area (ex. under the eave of a house) where water can be controlled. Stop watering the plant in mid-July to
encourage rest for 3 months.
15. In mid-October, cut back the dead foliage and give the plant a drink to begin the process again.
GOOD LUCK with growing some beautiful prize-winning Amaryllis bulbs.Jennifer Brown- Nov. 2006, rev. Gaby Hall Nov. 2008
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